Why Korean beauty products are not for everyone
Reviewed by Dr. Ravali Yalamanchili
MBBS- Prathima Medical College
MD-JSS University, Mysore.
The global rise of Korean soft power
The South Korean soft power has captivated the world, there is no doubt about that. The country which was once known for its technological prowess, such as automobiles and mobile technology, is now being recognised for its soft power.
From pop culture to cuisine, from television dramas to music, the wave of South Korea’s soft power has been creating ripples. Although, the entertainment industry of South Korea has been popular among certain pockets throughout the world since the early 1990s, it was with the smash hit of Gangnam Style performed by the now world famous South Korean singer Psy which became an instant worldwide phenomenon, that catapulted the glory of South Korean soft power all over the globe.
Psy’s Gangnam Style reached number two on the Billboard Hot 100 chart in 2012, a feat that many pundits would turn a blind eye, badly assessing that the song’s success would be a one-time event which proved to be wrong. The success of Psy’s Gangnam Style made the entire world search for similar content into the music industry of South Korea. This gradually opened the doors for K-POP and gradually K-Drama, thus paving the road for the recognition of South Korean culture. K-Dramas especially have created additional attention toward Korean cuisine, fashion, beauty, and so forth.
The ripple effects and the glass skin
The huge rise of South Korea’s international footprint created natural and sometimes forced ripple effects. With the increasing popularity of K-Dramas and K-Pop songs around the globe, the popularity of actors and pop stars have also been mainstream. Their influence has played a pivotal role in shaping beauty ideals.
The flawless, dewy skin showcased by actors and idols has set new standards for beauty among Indian youth. One of the defining notions of K-beauty is the goal of “glass skin,” a clear, dewy, and radiant complexion that is sometimes regarded as the pinnacle of skincare. The idea of a perfect, luminous skin has struck a chord with Indian customers, many of whom battle with issues such as uneven skin tone, dryness, and dullness as a result of the country’s diverse environment and pollution levels.
The Accessibility of Korean skin products in India
Today, Indian consumers can easily access a plethora of Korean skincare and makeup products. Major e-commerce platforms and specialty beauty stores stock authentic brands, making it convenient to indulge in the K-beauty craze. The allure is undeniable: innovative formulations, trendy packaging, and the promise of achieving that “glass skin” look. From sheet masks to BB creams, these products promise radiant, youthful skin and are widely available in Indian markets, both online and offline.
But beneath the glamorous allure of flawless, glass-like skin, are there any concerns we should be considering before we get ourselves a K-Beauty skin care product? Lets deep dive into the common ingredients that are usually found in some of the best Korean skin care products.
Bioactive ingredients in Korean cosmeceuticals and Korean skin care brands in India
Propolis (also known as “bee glue”): This resinous material obtained from beehives is collected by the bees from plant buds for Its structural integrity and thermal insulation which is necessary for building the beehive. It is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, and terpenoids which cements its use in traditional medicine for its antimicrobial, antioxidative, and anti-inflammatory properties. Topical application of propolis on superficial wounds has been shown to promote collagen synthesis, resulting in increased deposition of extracellular matrix proteins and promoting wound closure. It also protects the skin against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced reactive oxygen species.
Snail mucin: The mucus produced by the African giant land snail and common brown garden snail (Achatina fulica and Cornu aspersum respectively) are commonly seen in Korean face products accounting to their antimicrobial and skin regenerative properties. Snail secretions contain bioactive compounds including glycosaminoglycans that provide antioxidative properties. Studies have shown that snail mucin can be therapeutically used to alleviate radiation-induced dermatitis and burns. The secretions of Cornu aspersum was found to promote the multiplication, migration, and survival of human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, thus supporting its regenerative and wound healing properties.
Salmon egg extract: Marine-derived bioactive ingredients are increasingly being utilized in Korean facial kits and cosmeceuticals for their antioxidative and anti-aging properties. The eggs of Salmon fish are rich in unsaturated fatty acids, proteins, vitamins, and minerals which are known to promote skin health. Salmon egg extract upregulates the expression of collagen type I genes and multiple oxidative genes, thus, supporting its usefulness as an antioxidant and anti-aging agent. When applied to skin in the form of Korean face creams, hydrolyzed salmon roe proteins have been shown to destroy cell-cell adhesions to rejuvenate skin cells damaged by Uv exposure (photodamage). Salmon egg extract significantly improves photoaging signs such as wrinkles (surface roughness), pigmentation (melanin index), redness (erythema index), and dryness (water content) and led to improvement in global skin appearance.
Can K-beauty products satiate everyone?
While many K-beauty products feature naturally derived compounds as the major ingredients, it must be understood that these products are traditionally made for Korean skin tones. Since most Korean skin complexions lie in the range of light beige and natural beige, the Korean cosmeceuticals and the best Korean beauty products also arrive within the limited range.
Admittedly, this issue might not even pose a problem to the ethnic Koreans, but it must be understood that Korean skin care brands in India might be failing in serving most Indians since the range of Indian skin tone complexions is vast – ranging from dry, oily, to combination skin.
Also, the climate and environment of Korea is vastly different from that of the Indian subcontinent. While both North Korea, and South Korea lie within the temperate climate zone, the Koreans get to experience four distinct seasons.
India on the other hand is located in both the tropical and subtropical climate zones, which experiences six primary climate zones based on temperature and precipitation patterns. The Indian skin has evolved to exude oil and sebum to protect from excessive drying. Over time, oily skin has prevailed, which is not the case with Koreans.
This is precisely why, despite the influence of Korean beauty trends and the allure of achieving glass-like skin through popular influencers, a consultation with a well trained dermatologist before using Korean facial products is essential.
Role of a dermatologist in helping pick Korean skin care brands
In the age of information, the image-conscious but wise consumers who are concerned with skin health tend to consult and seek the advice from their dermatologists regarding the safety and efficacy of cosmeceuticals and Korean face creams before using them.
Although the potential dermatologic applications of Korean cosmeceuticals extend beyond skin rejuvenation and include therapeutic use in, photoprotection, wound healing, and more, only a trained dermatologist could help in choosing the best product right for you.
Dr. Ravali Yalamanchili is one of the best dermatologist in Hyderabad. who was awarded the Gold Medalist during her MD from JSS University, underwent extensive training at her specialisation at Singapore. With the intent of providing the best patient care she established Neya Dermatology & Aesthetics situated at Jubilee Hills.
As a part of her practice, she keeps herself abreast of the current and popular aesthetic trends. With her dermatological background, she understands the potential role of Korean products in dermatologic treatment regimens.
Trust Neya Dermatology & Aesthetics to provide expert advice and personalized treatments that help you in choosing the best Korean face products which suits your skin complexion effectively, keeping it healthy and comfortable.
Read More:
